3 posts
Joined: 22/09/2004 21:34:38
Location: Banstead United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Flywheel Bolt MPI
Does anyone know the size of the MPI Flywheel Bolt it is about 1 3/16 or 30mm. I need to get a socket in the morning.
Thanks
Mike
Posted: May 03, 2009 07:58 PM
Nomininolife
79 posts
Joined: 02/10/2004 12:31:42
Location: SHEFFIELD United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Bolts
The flywheel bolt is 1 1/2 and the crank pulley bolt is 1 5/16
Posted: Jan 24, 2005 03:28 PM
Baza Cawte
7 posts
Joined: 30/11/2014 13:28:25
Location: spilsby United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Crankshaft
Hi there everyone, can anyone please tell me where I can obtain a tap for the flywheel bolt end of the crankshaft on a 1275 mpi engine, it looks like the very start of the threads have been bruised and they just take the threads of the flywheel bolt
Posted: Nov 30, 2014 01:37 PM
Stuart
243 posts
Joined: 17/05/2005 11:14:28
Location: Frome United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Gear selection
Your clutch arm could need adjusting, depending on what year your mini is, it should just be two large adjuster bolts attatched to the clutch arm just as it leaves the flywheel cover. If you have a verto clutch ( i.e when the master cylinder is inline with the flywheel cover), undo the two bolts, and get someone to push the pedal down as far as it will go, then with the pedal down, do up the bolt nearest the flywheel cover, then raise the pedal and tighten the bolt by no more than 4 flats, then do up the securing bolt and you should be ok. Also see if the system needs bleeding, or just double-da-clutch more lol. Stu
Posted: Apr 06, 2006 09:40 PM
David
28 posts
Joined: 07/10/2004 14:28:33
Location: Inverness United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Are you turning the right way?
I think this is on a left hand thread as the flywheel turns clock wise, so youd need to loosen it off by turning the bolt clockwise.
Posted: Aug 18, 2005 02:31 PM
68Moke
33 posts
Joined: 10/09/2004 21:06:12
Location: Lakeville United States
gear box.
Why do you want, or maybe need to change it? Assuming it is need of a rebuild. Many want to keep the original box to the car. Assuming this is all pre-verto style of flywheel, you can bolt on a rod change box, but changes will have to be made. You will need of course all the linkage and the bracket to mount the shifter. A new hole may have to be cut in the floor pan and not all are willing to do this. You should be able to use the same flywheel housing but you will have to check the thrust clearance on the idler gear. Read your manual on the proper procedure. Which is mainly bolt up the flywheel housing to the gear box (the motor is out of the picture, not bolted to the box) with gasket in place. Take a feeler gauge and measure the clearance. You may want to put on some lower engine steadies. I installed a rod change box to my 68 English Moke that had a magic wand tranny. For the moke, I had to shorten the shift linkage and support. Wtih the shifter being so low, I had to increase its length by 3 1/2 . Good luck
Posted: Jul 26, 2005 04:43 AM
kdb550
26 posts
Joined: 12/03/2005 21:07:08
Location: Havant United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Flywheel
I agree with the previous post this usually happens when the flywheel has been off before and has not been put back on correctly, will deal with that in a minute but the thing to do is this have done this loads of times and it always works for me. Get the puller as tight as it will possibly go not to tight as the head shears off the centre bolt have done that to many times as well then with a lump hammer hit the back of the flywheel through the starter motor hole. Dont use a lump of wood as it absorbs to much shock, then rotate the wheel 90 degrees whack again do this 4 times then give the puller bolt another turn and repeat and I will guarantee it will come off. This has worked on flywheels that have been well and truly welded on to the point where I have had to scrap the crank. Know when it comes to refitting the flywheel get some valve grinding paste smear some on the end of the crank taper and put the flywheel on and twist it from side to side remove and check to see that this has rubbed the whole circumferance of the taper if not repeat once you have done this ensure that you remove all the paste from the end of the crank and inside the flywheel then put the flywheel back on. Tighten to 150lbs ft then smack the end of the flywheel with a hammer and repeat do this until you cant tighten any more after hitting it. This will prevent the flywheel from lapping to the end of the crank and will be a dammed site easier to remove the next time. Vizard recomends heating the flywheel before hand as well but to remove after you need to use a hydraulic ram.
Posted: Sep 26, 2005 10:45 PM
Mininova
8 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 13:42:58
Location: Worcester United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Flywheel stuck on!
Im trying to remove the flywheel from the A+ engine in my mini, and its well and truly stuck on. So far the flywheel puller is bending, and Ive turned a socket set extension banana shaped whilst trying to tighten up the puller even more…. Have also tried shocking the flywheel off by hitting the centre bolt of the flywheel puller - all to no avail. The puller is definetly lined up properly on the end of the crank, and the flywheel bolt and locking nut has been removed. Am I missing a trick here? Does anyone know of anything else I could do? Cheers Guys, have tried the wood idea but unfortunately it didnt move, but I have got a lovely pile of kinderling, going to try the heat approach next.
Posted: Aug 18, 2005 11:50 AM
Rich
Joined: 14/01/2005 18:31:32
Location: Yeovil United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Hi, I just changed the clutch on my mini and I know exactly what you mean about it being tough, assuming you have undone all the bolts including the giant centre one the best thing to do is remove the starter motor and then get a fairly long piece of wood and hit the flywheel from behind (do this while the puller is as tight as you can get it). This worked for me after hours of struggling with the puller, let me know how you get on.
Posted: Aug 18, 2005 05:59 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Does the front of the car need to be on stands?
It's probably easier to work on when it's up on stands. All you need to do when you get to the point of undoing the flywheel bolt is put it in gear and get someone to press hard on the footbrake - you would probably need to do that anyway, even if it was on the ground!
Posted: Apr 09, 2008 02:52 PM
Upper Suspension Arm AHHHHHH!!
In theory you can get to the bolts holding the retaining plate from inside the engine bay - they're just behind and below the clutch mechanism on the flywheel cover. However, I don't think it would upset the MoT man too much if you cut a small section out of the inner wing to get at them.
Posted: May 20, 2007 04:03 PM
T. Perks
57 posts
Joined: 19/11/2006 09:21:16
Location: Wotton under Edge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
clutch seized??
Undo the o/s engine mounting, remove the top and bottom if fitted steady bars, jack up the engine use bit of wood between sump and jack, undo ring of bolts around the clutch cover, now remove it undo the 2 nuts that hold the thrust bearing plunger remove split pin from clutch arm and pull out arm now plunger should be easy to remove if not give it a tap with soft hammer, if its all solid then this is your problem once removed clean cover out aplly copper grease and reassemble if this is not seized then proceed to remove flywheel and clutch assy, but ive never seen or heard of a mini clutch plate seizing yet!
Posted: Jun 05, 2007 12:05 PM
abs
98 posts
Joined: 08/11/2007 20:20:11
Location: cornwall United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Re.
Your slave cylinder is probably leaking. Just peel the rubber boot back and see if its wet. Also worth checking the clearance on the collar(big nut) on the end of the flywheel housing, should be 6.5mm gap and if you`re on a pre verto set up the clearance between the long lever and the 7/16" bolt should be about 0.5mm if I remember correctly.
Posted: Jun 06, 2010 07:05 PM
Fitting engine to engine stand
The ones I've seen (though never with a mini engine attached) all seem to bolt to the 'back' of the engine, i.e. with the gearbox (or in the case of a mini, the clutch cover) and flywheel removed. This then allows you to rotate the engine along an axis roughly in line with the crank.
Posted: Mar 24, 2010 07:41 AM
Iain
44 posts
Joined: 29/02/2008 12:23:18
Location: Aberdeen United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Started to replace the clutch on my car, following the manual raising the front up on axle stands. It has occurred to me that to remove the flywheel bolt and flywheel it would be easier to apply a long lever on the socket to remove the bolt if the car was on the ground and in gear and not to have to jamb a screwdriver in the starter motor ring.
Apart from accessing the engine mount bolts inside the front wing is there any other reason to have the front raised up?
Your experiences would be helpful, thanks.
Posted: Apr 07, 2008 03:47 PM
Alex
35 posts
Joined: 05/01/2005 11:10:50
Location: Potters Bar, Hertfor United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
flywheels
If you have a pre-engaged starter it is easy to identify. the starter solenoid is part of the unit and the pinion that engages the flywheel is also integral in half a casing. The early non pre engaged had a seperate solenoid bolted away from the starte and the pinion was on a long unprotected shaft that it run up and down. try looking on website at GXE4527 and GXE4404
Posted: Apr 12, 2005 03:39 PM
GuessWorks
14 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 13:02:00
Location: Rugby United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
flywheel and brakes
The brakes is an easy one... all disk hubs are the same so a 7.5 and corresponding caliper should bolt straight on, not sure but you may need the drive flange aswell... The Flywheel, A pre engaged has more teeth than an intertia and does not have the chamferd edge on the outerside... also most pre-engaged are verto..
Posted: Nov 18, 2004 04:04 PM
Nic
2 posts
Joined: 19/09/2004 03:14:45
Location: Drybrook United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
damn subjects
if the flywheel is thinner you should have some spacers to fit where the diaphram bolts on. or have you got that clutch stop bolt on the cover adjusted correctly?
Posted: Nov 20, 2004 06:11 PM
Bobster
71 posts
Joined: 23/08/2007 15:49:09
Location: Barnsley United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Can anybody help??
I am trying to remove my flywheel/clutch plate, however, i have removed the lockwasher and bolt but when I put the puller onto the flywheel hub, i tighten it as tight as i can get it. The puller has had a socket set tightening the bolt, and then a metal pole on the end of the ratchet to get more leverage and I still cant get it to budge.
There appears to be some sort of bonding agent like loctite present,how is it possible to losen it off tog et the gflywheel/clutch plate out?
Any help would be greatly useful!!
Rob
Posted: Jun 03, 2008 07:47 PM
Colin Ritchie
1 posts
Joined: 11/07/2009 08:31:02
Location: Pretoria South Africa
Judder
Hi,
My car had similar problems once. You mensioned no oil being used. In my first case, a small amount of oil had leaked on the clutch/flywheel and clutch was juddering.
In the second case I found the flywheel was loose and mating surfaces damaged. I removed flyheel and clutch, relapped the components and re-assembled. Cleaned all surfaces with thinners and made sure it was tight. I always tighten bolt up hard, give it a good smack with a hammer to shock it. It generally climbs further on crank. I then loosen bolt first, then tighten up to required torque.
Regards Colin
Posted: Feb 03, 2012 03:40 AM